The Drakarpo Kora in Paro has become one of the most happening Buddhist pilgrimage in these few years. I have heard of hundreds of people taking what is considered the toughest spiritual journey one could possibly venture on. It’s the circumambulation of the intriguing rocky hill that is considered sacred. What makes it the extreme endurance test is the number of times you have to walk around the hill- 108! It takes four long days tp accomplish the journey on healthy legs. There is also a lighter version of doing 13 rounds if you don›t have four days to spare. I just did one round that day and it took me about 25 minutes on my fresh legs.
When I was there I have seen people of different ages inching along the hill in peaceful silence- they were all perhaps seeking different things through the same journey. There was no rush whatsoever, and each one has kept their own pile of pebbles to keep count of the number of rounds they made. From the hundreds of piles of pebbles I could make out how many people had already done the arduous journey. Some have built little stupas from the 108 pebbles using red mud as a holder. There were also others who marked their count on the ground or rock face using scratch marks.
A signboard at the starting point reads:
“This place is considered very holy and sacred. The 8th Century revered saint, Guru Padmasambhava accompanied by his consort Dakini Yeshey Tshogay and many other Yogis and great masters down the ages have blessed and sanctified this particular place.
If you carefully observe the rocks along the path as you walk along the mountain, you can see foot and hand prints and many other auspicious sings and symbols believed to have manifested by themselves through some supernatural forces. It is also believed that if one circumambulates the mountain 108 times, even sins so great as killing one’s own parents can merit redemption.”
It’s quite a proclamation to say that circumambulating the mountain 108 times could merit redemption of sins so great as killing one’s own parents but doing it could very much bring about the highest level of satisfaction no matter what type of believer you are.
If you are a hardcore religious person then this journey is for you because it promises you the highest level of reward- accumulation of greatest merits and redemption of your worst sins. It’s your stairway to heaven. Every round shall make you feel closer to the heaven.
If you are a spiritual person seeking inner peace then this journey is for you because four days of quiet time on the beautiful alpine hill with spellbinding view of Paro valley will give you all the time and ambience to reflect on your life and make peace with yourself. With life getting busier by the day we must make such deliberate choices to be with ourselves.
If you are not a believer of that sort and you consider yourself a practical person who knows that life is what we make of it, still this journey is for you because when was the last time you tested your endurance? It’s such a beautiful a way to give priority to your physical health. You have no idea how every stretch of you muscle will be put to task, and you will bathe in your own sweat. It’s the mountain gym you will love. After four days you would have added fews years more to your life and you will realise how truly life is what you make of it.
I particularly love the idea of walking around that beautiful hill 108 times because I like challenges, I am thinking of doing it in three days. My mother completed it in four days, so I have to prove that I am her son. I will time every round and beat my own time and set a record. In doing it I want to have conversation with myself and try to find inner peace. I also want break my habits of lazing around and improve blood flow in my heart. I am going to do this very soon. I need to look for a good team to camp up there with me.
The entire path is well paved with stone slabs. I remember my friend Karma Tenzin doing it as a social project with his students when he in Yeozerling School. There is water scarcity and once I was told that a bucket of water was sold for Nu 200. Bhutan Trust Fund has funded a project to bring water there. There is no toilet facility. One private toilet that was there was locked and I am told that it’s inaccessible. It’s intriguing to find people who won’t even share their toilet. But don’t worry I was there particularly to look for a spot to build a toilet. We hope to do it very soon.
Opinion by Passang Tshering
The writer is the founder of Bhutan Toilet Organization